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Horse Fence Planning |
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Horse fence
can be one of the most attractive features of a horse
facility. But not all fence is suitable for horses.
Horse Fence is a major capital investment that should be
carefully planned before construction. A fence should
keep horses on the property and keep away nuisances such
as dogs and unwanted visitors. Horse Fences aid facility
management by allowing controlled grazing and
segregating groups of horses according to sex, age,
value, or use. Well-constructed and maintained fences
enhance the aesthetics and value of a stable facility,
which in turn complements marketing efforts. Poorly
planned, haphazard, unsafe, or unmaintained fences will
detract from a facility’s value and reflect poor
management. Good fences can be formal or informal in
appearance, yet all should be well built and carefully
planned. Many experienced horse owners will relay
stories about the savings for cheaper, but unsafe, horse
fence (barbed wire, for example) eventually being paid
for in veterinary bills to treat injured horses. Often,
more than one kind of horse fence is used at a facility.
Different horse fences might be installed for grazing
pastures, exercise paddocks, riding areas, or for
securing property lines. Land topography influences the
look, effectiveness, and installation of fencing.
Consider different horse groups. Stallions, weanlings,
mares, mares with foals, and geldings all have different
fencing requirements. Pasture use may range from
exercise paddocks (corrals) to grazing or hay
production. Paddock layout should allow for ease of
management, including movement of horses, removal of
manure, and care of the footing surface. Pasture design
should allow field equipment, such as mowers, manure
spreaders, and baling equipment, to enter and maneuver
easily. This will reduce fence damage by machinery and
the time needed to work in the field. This bulletin
presents information useful in planning horse fences for
horse facilities. The emphasis is on sturdy, safe horse
fence typically used in the eastern United States and
Canada. fence materials and hybrids of traditional and
new materials are now available. Details of fence
materials and construction may be found in other
publications (see Additional Resources). |
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Features That Apply to Any Fence
Type |
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Good Planning Attributes |
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Planning includes more than
selecting a fence type. It is best to develop an overall
plan where the aesthetics, chore efficiency, management
practices, safety, and finances are considered. The best
planning involves a layout drawn to scale that shows
proposed gates, fence lines, where fences cross streams
or other obstacles, irregular paths along a stream or
obstacle, traffic routes for horses and handlers, routes
for supplies and water, vehicle traffic routes, and
access for mowing equipment. All these should be in
relation to buildings and other farmstead features.
Select and install fencing that allows easy access to
pastures and does not limit performance of stable
chores. Gates should be easy to operate with only one
hand so the other hand is free. Fencing should also
allow easy movement of groups of horses from pasture to
housing facilities. All-weather lanes should connect
turnout areas to the stable. Lanes can be grassed or
graveled depending on the type and amount of traffic
that use them. Make sure they are wide enough to allow
passage of mowing equipment and vehicles. Vehicles such
as cars, light trucks, and tractors can be up to 8 feet
wide. Farm equipment needs 12- to 16-feet-wide lanes to
comfortably negotiate. Narrower lane widths are
acceptable for smaller tractors or mowing equipment.
Remember to leave room for snow storage or removal along
the sides of lanes and roads. It is best to eliminate
fence corners and dead-end areas when enclosing a
pasture for more than one horse. By curving the corners,
it is less likely that a dominant horse will trap a
subordinate. Round corners are especially important for
board fences and highly recommended for wire fences.
Most wire fencing is installed with the wire under
tension as part of the design strength of the fence.
This tension may be modest, just enough to keep the wire
straight and evenly spaced throughout seasonal
temperature changes in wire length, or may be quite
substantial, as with high-tensile wire fence. With
tensioned fencing, rounded corners may not be as strong
or durable as square ones. A slight outward tilt of
support posts on curved corners can help resist the
inward forces of the tensioned wire. Position the
tensioned wire on the outside of the fence post as it
travels around the curve, then back to the inside (horse
side) on the straight sections. It is possible to build
square corners for tension fences and use boards to
prevent horses from getting into the corner. This
creates areas that limit grazing, requiring regular
mowing, but it is cheaper to construct than curved
corners.
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Good Fence Attributes |
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Horse fences should be 54 to
60 inches above ground level. A good rule for paddocks
and pastures is to have the top of the fence at wither
height to ensure that horses will not flip over the
fence. Larger horses, stallions, or those adept at
jumping may require even taller fences. At the bottom,
an 8-inch clearance will leave enough room to avoid
trapping a hoof yet will discourage a horse from
reaching under the fence for grass. A bottom rail with
clearance no higher than 12 inches will prevent foals
from rolling under the fence. Fence clearance varies
with fence
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The Best Fence |
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Understand the purpose of a
fence. The true test of a fence’s worth is not when
horses are peacefully grazing, but when an excited horse
contacts the fence in an attempt to escape or because he
never saw it during a playful romp. How will the fence
and horse hold up under these conditions? A horse’s
natural instinct to flee from perceived danger has an
effect on fence design. Like other livestock, horses
will bolt suddenly, but since they are larger and
faster, they hit the fence with more force. Also, horses
fight harder than other livestock to free themselves
when trapped in a fence. There are many types of
effective horse fencing, but there is no “best” fence.
Each fencing type has inherent tradeoffs in its
features. A “perfect” fence should be highly visible to
horses. Horses are farsighted and look to the horizon as
they scan their environment for danger. Therefore, even
when fencing is relatively close, it needs to be
substantial enough to be visible. A fence should be
secure enough to contain a horse that runs into it
without causing injury or fence damage. A perfect fence
should have some “give” to it to minimize injury upon
impact. It should be high enough to discourage jumping
and solid enough to discourage testing its strength. It
should have no openings that could trap a head or hoof.
The perfect fence should not have sharp edges or
projections that can injure a horse that is leaning,
scratching, or falling into it. It should be inexpensive
to install, easy to maintain, and last 20 years or more.
And finally, it should look appealing. Unfortunately, no
type of fence fits all the criteria for the perfect
fence. Often there is a place for more than one type of
fence on a horse facility. Stable management objectives
and price ultimately determine which fencing is chosen.
Many new types. Higher clearances allow small animals,
such as dogs, to enter the pasture. Fences should be
built with particular attention to fence post integrity.
Several fence material manufacturers provide good
detailed guides to assist in construction and material
selection. Fence openings should be either large enough
to offer little chance of foot, leg, and head entrapment
or so small that hooves cannot get through. Small, safe
openings are less than 3-inches square, but can depend
on the size of the horse. Tension fences, such as the
types that use high-tensile wires, usually have diagonal
cross-bracing on corner assemblies. These diagonal wires
or wood bracing provide triangular spaces for foot and
head entrapment. Good fence design denies horse access
to the braced area or at least minimizes hazards if
entrapment occurs. Horses will test fence strength
deliberately and casually. Horses often reach through or
over fences for attractions on the other side, thus,
sturdy fences are essential. Fences that do not allow
this behavior are the safest. Keep open space between
rails or strands to l2 inches or less. For electric
fences, this open distance may be increased to 18 inches
since horses avoid touching the fence. With most fence,
and particularly with paddock and perimeter fence, a
single strand of electric wire can be run 4 to 6 inches
above or just inside the top rail to discourage horses
who habitually lean, scratch, or reach over fences. The
fence should be smooth on the horse side to prevent
injury. Fasten rails and wire mesh to the inside (horse
side) of the posts. This also strengthens the fence. If
a horse leans on the fence, its weight will not push out
the fasteners. Nails and other fasteners should be
smooth without jagged parts that can cut the horse or
catch a halter. Figure 1. Poor fence layout. Figure 2.
Improved fence layout. Do not place water trough or feed
area in a corner where one horse can prevent others from
drinking/ eating or corner subordinants. Tractor
implements or other sharp items should not be left in
field. Overgrown shrubs and/or brush create an
entanglement risk. Rickety fence is dangerous and may
not contain the horses. Tight area can trap horses and
make mowing difficult. Deep corner creates an area where
a horse can be bullied by others, also hard to mow.
Cattle guard is not recommended for horses. Hill Horses
often chew and kick siding material. Shed should not be
at bottom of hill where drainage is compromised. Pond
and stream without protective fence are prone to
erosion. Corner rounded to allow a bullied horse to
escape. Safe horse gate Water trough deliberately away
from gate to minimize horses from congregating. Place so
it is convenient to check. Horse-safe fencing Pond and
stream fenced off with controlled access for drinking,
thereby reducing erosion. Shed placed on high ground for
drainage and behind fenceline to keep horses from
damaging siding. Former deep corner now blocked. Hill
Area where horses could have gotten trapped. Best to
deny stream and pond access Fenceline Property line
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Fence Post Selection |
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The fence post is the
foundation of the fence, so its importance cannot be
overemphasized. The common element in virtually all
successful horse fences is
a wooden post. Setting posts represents the hardest work
and the most time-consuming part of fence building and
is absolutely the most critical to the longterm success
of the fence. Driven posts are more rigid and therefore
recommended over handset posts or those set in
predrilled holes. Driven posts are pounded into the
ground through a combination of weight and impact by
specialized equipment. The principle behind driven posts
that makes them so secure is that the displaced soil is
highly compacted around the post, resisting post
movement. Even for do-it-yourself projects, you should
contract the job of driving posts. Post-driver equipment
is nearly impossible to rent due to liability concerns.
Under some dry, hard, or rocky soil conditions, a
smallbore hole will be necessary for driven posts. Wood
is recommended for all horse fence
posts. The best buy is a pressure-treated post from a
reputable dealer. The preservative must be properly
applied to be fully effective. Initially, treated posts
are more expensive than untreated ones, but they last
four times as long as untreated ones. Depending on soil
conditions and preservative treatment quality, a
pressure-treated post can last 10 to 25 years. Suitable
wooden fence posts are similar for board and mesh
fences. High-tensile wire and other strandtype fences
require similar posts, but distances between posts are
often Visible fences will prevent playful horses from
accidentally running into them. A frightened horse may
still hit a visible fence while he is blinded with fear.
A forgiving fence that contains the horse without injury
is better than an unyielding brick wall. Wire fences are
the least visible, so boards or strips of material are
often added. Height to horse withers to discourage
reaching or flipping over fence. Typically, 54" to 60"
with 48" minimum. Figure 3. Attributes of a good
horse fence (nonelectric).
No matter what fence rail material is used, horse safety
and fence sturdiness are important. Visible fence (or
visible top rail) provides horse a sense of fence
location and height. Attach fencing material to inside
(horse side) of posts to prevent pushing material off
posts and to provide a smooth interior surface. Avoid
triangular shapes of rails and cross braces that can
entrap legs and feet. 12" maximum opening to discourage
reaching through fence Bottom clearance 8" minimum for
rails and 3" for mesh fence to discourage horse grazing.
12" clearance desirable for mower access. Post spacing
variable from 8' to 12' depending on rail or mesh
material (larger distance possible with electric fence
under tension). Smooth interior surface is free of
nails, staples, hardware, or other projections. Strong,
firmly driven posts provide the foundation for fence
integrity, safety, and longevity. much longer than for
board or mesh fence. Post distance on high-tensile wire
fence depends on wind influences and topography. Round
wood posts are stronger and accept more uniform pressure
treatment than square posts of similar dimension.
Attachment of wooden rail boards to round wood posts is
improved when one face of the post is flat. Exceptions
to wood posts are allowed for horse-safe steel posts
typically used on chain link fences, pipe posts from
welded fences, and rigid PVC fence post. Hollow posts
require top caps to cover the ragged top edge, or should
be designed that the top fence rail covers the top of
the post. Recycled plastic, 4-inch-diameter solid posts
are suitable for horse fence,
but require a small-bore pilot hole before driving.
Metal and fiberglass T-posts are slightly cheaper but
pose a serious risk of impalement and are not
recommended. They are also not strong enough to
withstand horse impact without bending. With a plastic
safety cap installed on the top, Tposts may be
cautiously used in very large pastures where horse
contact is rare. How deep to set the post for structural
stability varies considerably with soil conditions. Soil
characteristics play a major role in determining the
longevity and maintenance requirements of a fence. Some
soils remain wet and can quickly rot untreated wooden
posts. Posts in sandy or chronically wet soil will need
to be set deeper and perhaps supported by a collar of
concrete casing. Other soils tend to heave with frost
and can loosen posts that are not driven deep enough.
Fences under tension, such as wire strand or mesh
materials, will require deeply set posts to offer
longterm resistance against tension. A typical line post
depth is 36 inches. Corner and gateposts are required to
handle greater loads and are about 25% larger in
diameter and are set deeper, often to 48 inches.
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Gates |
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Gate Design |
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Gates should have the same
strength and safety as the fence. Gates can be bought or
built in as many styles as horse
fence but do not have to be the same style as the
fence. The most common and recommended materials are
wood and metal tubes. Easy-to-assemble kits for wooden
gates with all the hardware, including fasteners,
braces, hinges, and latches, can be bought from farm,
lumber, or hardware stores. Horsesafe tubular pipe steel
gates (often 13/8-inch outer diameter pipes) have smooth
corners and securely welded cross pipes to minimize
sharp-edged places for cuts and snags. By contrast,
channel steel or aluminum stock livestock gates are not
recommended for horse use due to their less-sturdy
construction and numerous sharp edges. Avoid gates with
diagonal cross bracing. Although this strengthens the
gate, the narrow angles can trap legs, feet, and
possibly heads. Cablesupported gates offer a similar
hazard to horses congregating around the gate. If gate
supports are needed, a wooden block called a short post
can be placed under the free hanging end of the gate to
help support its weight and extend hardware life. The
use of a cattle guard (rails set over a ditch) instead
of a gate is not recommended since horses do not
consistently respect them. Horses have been known to
jump them or try to walk over them, which results in
tangled and broken legs. Gates should be as tall as the
horse fence to discourage
horses from reaching over or attempting to jump over the
gate. Gates can be up to 16-feet wide, with a minimum of
12 feet to allow easy passage of vehicles and tractors.
Horse and handler gates should be no less than 4-feet
wide, with 5 feet preferred. Human-only passages are
useful for chore time efficiency. Fencing near gates
needs to withstand the pressures of horses congregating
around the gate, which means it needs to be sturdy,
highly visible, and safe from trapping horse feet and
heads. Some paddock gates are positioned to swing into
the pressure of the horse to prevent horses from pushing
the gate open and breaking latches. On the other hand,
gates that are capable of swinging both into and out of
the enclosure are helpful when moving horses. Additional
latches are recommended to secure the gate in an open
position, fully swung against the fence, not projecting
into the enclosure. Gates are hung to swing freely and
not sag over time. The post holding the swinging gate
maintains this freeswinging action, necessitating a
deeply set post with a larger diameter than fenceline
posts. Gate hardware must withstand the challenges of
leaning horses and years of use. A person should be able
to unlock, swing open, shut, and lock a properly
designed gate with only one hand so that the other hand
is free to lead a horse or carry a bucket, for example.
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Gate Location |
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In most horse operations,
gates are positioned toward the middle of a fenceline
because horses are individually moved in and out of the
enclosure. This eliminates trapping horses in a corner
near a gate. On operations where groups of horses are
herded more often than individually led, gates
positioned at corners will assist in driving horses
along the fenceline and out of the enclosure. Place
pasture gates opposite each other across an alley. Gates
that open to create a fenced chute between the two
pastures will aid horse movement. Fencing along
driveways and roads has to provide room to maneuver
vehicles to access gates. Entry driveway surfaces are
often 16-feet wide with at least 7 feet on each side for
snow removal, snow storage, and clearance for large
vehicles.
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Perimeter Fence |
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Many farms make sure that
any loose horse cannot leave the property through the
use of perimeter fencing around the entire complex. This
fence (and/or gates) fills the gaps at the end of access
lanes and often surrounds the public entry side of the
facility. Containment of loose horses becomes more
important as traffic and neighbors increase around the
horse facility. Sometimes the perimeter fence functions
to keep human and canine intruders away from the horses.
Perimeter fence does not have to be of the same
construction as paddock or pasture fence since it should
have limited contact with unsupervised horses, but it
should be visible and strong.
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Double Fence |
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An alternate fencing scheme
favored by some farms is to double fence so that each
paddock ber that when driving through a gate while
towing equipment, substantial room may be needed to turn
between fencelines. A tractor towing a manure spreader
or hay wagon will use 16 to 25 feet, respectively, to
make a 90- degree turn. The easiest option is to
position gates so that machinery can drive straight
through the gate. Position gates where good visibility
along a road will provide safety for slowly moving horse
trailers and farm equipment that are entering and
exiting the road. Place gates 40 to 60 feet from a road
to allow parking off the road while opening the gate.
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Special Fence Areas |
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Crowded Areas |
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Strong, safe fencing should
be used where many horses congregate or crowd each
other, such as near gates, feed/water stations, or
shelters. In areas where horses are not often in contact
with the fence, such as in very large pastures, a less
substantial fence can suffice. Stronger fencing is
needed when there are attractions on the other side,
such as better grass or equine companions.
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Controlled Grazing |
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Controlled, or rotational,
grazing of pasture grasses demands that some areas
periodically remain without grazing for regrowth of the
grass. If temporary or cross fencing is used to
designate controlled sections, it should be just as safe
for the horses as the permanent perimeter fence.
Temporary fence does not have to be quite as
impenetrable because the perimeter fence will eventually
contain a loose horse (Figure 4). A younger or
inexperienced horse will need to be introduced to
electric fence used in a controlled grazing system.
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All-Weather Paddock |
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A good management tool for
horse facilities on limited acreage is to provide at
least one all-weather paddock for foul weather turnout.
Also known as a rainy day or sacrifice paddock, this
paddock takes the worst wear during unfavorable weather
conditions while attempting to preserve the grass of the
remaining paddocks. Because turf is easily destroyed
during wet conditions, the unfortunate paddock will not
be expected to maintain grass and should have an
all-weather footing. It is to be used for those horses
that have to be turned out of their stalls despite the
weather. This paddock should have safe, sturdy fencing
and should be located on welldrained high ground
accessible to the stable. Since it will be an ungrassed
exercise lot, it is beneficial to locate or screen it
away from the more public areas of the stable. Horse
contact with the paddock fence is more likely since it
is smaller and horses are more likely to be running and
playing in it. Figure 4. Double fence to discourage
horse activity through and over fence in adjoining
paddocks (top). A simple cross fence is often suitable
for adjacent paddocks used for controlled grazing
(bottom). Space wide enough for grass mowing equipment,
3-foot minimum to separate horses. Removable slats or
gate for mower access. Cross fence (2-strand electrified
material) Sturdy perimeter fence has its own fence with
an alley between. Double fencing is almost always used
with stallions and particularly valuable stock. Other
applications include boarding or training facilities
where horses are worked and stabled individually so they
are not allowed to socialize. Social and antisocial
activity over the fence may be virtually eliminated with
double fencing. A combination double fence and perimeter
fence may be used where human contact with horses is
discouraged, such as along public roads and residential
boundary lines. The first fence keeps the horse in, and
the second fence keeps unwanted visitors away from
direct horse contact.
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Terrain |
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Some sections of the site
may be too steep or rocky for pasture use, or the soil
may be unsuitable for adequate grass growth. Soils that
do not drain readily will cause wet areas that become
eyesores. It is suggested to fence horses out of
unsuitable sites, including swampy areas and streams.
Contact the U.S. Natural Resources Conservation Service
or your local Cooperative Extension office for soil
information on your acreage and recommendations for
types of pasture vegetation to use on the site. Pasture
and Hay for Horses provides good information and
recommendations (see Additional Resources).
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Trees |
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Trees should be fenced off.
Horses usually strip off tree bark left within their
reach, and dead branches pose a safety hazard. Some
trees are poisonous to horses, while dead limbs can
impale them.
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Common Fencing Questions |
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How Much Area Needs to Be
Enclosed? |
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Horses may be kept inside
most of the time and only turned out for exercise a few
hours daily. In some cases, horses are turned out
individually rather than in groups. This means more, and
perhaps smaller paddocks, are required which increases
the amount of fencing. An all-weather paddock may serve
to exercise several horses, in succession, each day.
Moving horses between turnout and stable should be
convenient. Rectangular areas are more relaxing for a
group of horses. Square pastures take less fencing. For
example, 800 feet of fencing is needed for a 200-foot
square area, versus 1,000 feet of fencing needed for a
400-foot by 100-foot enclosure of the same area.
Straight fences on level ground are faster to build and
easier to maintain than fencing covering rough terrain.
Plan an average of 2 to 3 acres per horse for grazing
without supplemental feed. This prescription works well
during the grass-growing season of the northeastern
United States. Most horses kept in the northeast are
provided supplemental feed and do not depend entirely on
pasture grazing, so acreage per horse becomes less
relevant. Acreage needed then depends on the size of
turnout paddocks for exercise, and space for riding
areas and stables. In overstocked and overgrazed
pastures, topsoil erodes as the vegetation is trampled
away. Additionally, horse manure is easily transported
into nearby areas via water runoff. It is important to
contain this runoff so that it does not cause pollution.
If topography permits, vegetated areas around the
perimeter of ungrassed paddocks may be enough to filter
and absorb runoff. Substantial grading of the site will
be needed to divert, and possibly store, runoff from
large, ungrassed lots. Daily manure removal from the
site for storage elsewhere will reduce the concentration
of potential pollutants in the runoff.
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Why Is the Horse Outside the
Fence? |
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Horses are herd animals,
usually desiring other equine companions. They can test
fence strength in an attempt to join neighbors,
especially when a horse is kept alone. Other social
pressures and overstocking instill a similar desire to
get to the other side of the fence. If the grass really
is greener on the other side, expect horse attempts to
get to it. Strong, solid-looking fences usually provide
adequate protection. Make sure the horse cannot climb
the fence, and social and antisocial activity over the
fence will not lead to injuries. Preventing this
activity is recommended but realize that most fence will
suffer damage from even innocent horse pastimes such as
scratching, chewing, pawing, and playing. Loose wires or
boards make it easier for a horse to escape. Maintenance
should be factored into the total cost of a fence
installation. When electric fencing is chosen, make sure
that horses are safely contained during times when the
current is off.
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How Much Is Reasonable to Spend on
Fencing? |
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Attractive horse fences tend
to be more expensive. In general, safer fencing is also
higher in cost. Some types of fence have a higher
initial cost but significantly less maintenance cost and
a long lifetime. Some savings are gained by placing the
aesthetically pleasing fencing along the public side of
the property while less attractive, yet equally
functional, fencing can be used in more remote
locations. Save costs by installing fence yourself,
buying fence materials in large lot sizes, or shopping
for reasonably priced and locally available materials.
Availability and prices for materials vary widely. Keep
in mind that some types of horse fence are difficult to
install properly without specialized equipment, such as
wire stretchers and post drivers. Books and fence
material manufacturers’ literature are available to
explain details of construction. New fencing materials
are appearing on the market every year. Price and
warranty can vary among manufacturers and installers.
Shop around to learn the benefits and drawbacks of
different horse fences. Ask for references from both
fence dealers and installers to determine whom to
contact for future fence problems. Visit farms with
different types of horse fencing, and talk with the
manager about impressions and concerns. A well-designed
and carefully selected fence will increase the amount of
time you spend with your horse versus time spent mending
the horse and horse fence.
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Fence Layout Example |
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Start fence layout planning
with a scaled drawing of the farm and its current
features. Include overall distances and special features
that need to be fenced around. An affinity diagram
allows a perspective on what features need to be near
other features at the facility (Figure 5). This part of
the planning process is not concerned with exactly where
fences and gates will be, but emphasizes general areas
of use on the site. In the figure, note that turnout
paddocks are conveniently located near the stable, while
larger pastures may be farther away. Include a service
area that contains manure storage and other features
that are not generally considered attractive. Locate the
service area away from public view, if possible, and
close to the stable for chore efficiency. Private and
public stables have different fence layout objectives
particularly in relation to vehicle traffic flow and
access to the residence. Figures 6 and 7 take the
features from Figure 5 and provide a layout appropriate
for public and private stable sites, respectively. Both
figures show fenceline positions and gate locations for
convenient access to the stable. Since the horse
population may change frequently, fencing should keep
horses that are unfamiliar with each other in separate
paddocks and uses double fencing where horses will be
kept in adjacent paddocks. Typically, a residence is
separated from the commercial facility for enhanced
privacy. The most time-intensive part of horse fence
building takes place before any ground is broken.
Thoughtful fence planning and layout will help make
daily chores and routines more efficient. The best horse
fence differs from facility to facility and even within
a horse property; different fence types are used to meet
the objectives of the enclosure. Good horse fence design
emphasizes a proper foundation, or post integrity. By
taking the time to understand a facility’s fencing needs
and expectations, you can provide a safe, functional
horse fence that will provide years of service and
enhance the property’s value. The Pennsylvania State
University Agricultural and Biological Engineering
Extension 246 Agricultural Engineering Bldg. University
Park, PA 16802 (814) 865-7685, Fax: (814) 863-1031 WEB
SITE: www.abe.psu.edu/ Prepared by Eileen Wheeler,
associate professor of agricultural and biological
engineering, and Jennifer Smith Zajaczkowski, senior
research technologist in agricultural and biological
engineering Additional Resources Pasture and Hay for
Horses. Agronomy Fact Sheet 32. The Pennsylvania State
University, University Park, PA. 4pp. Available on the
Internet at www.agronomy.psu.edu/Extension/
Facts/agfact32.pdf Fencing Options for Horse Farm
Management in Virginia. 1999. L. A. Lawrence. Virginia
Cooperative Extension. 3pp. Available on the Internet at
www.ext.vt.edu/news/periodicals/
livestock/aps-99_04/aps-0050.html High-Tensile Wire
Fencing. NRAES-11. 1981. Natural Resources, Agriculture,
and Engineering Service. Riley-Robb Hall, Cornell
University, Ithaca, NY. 12 pp. On-line catalog at
www.nraes.org Horsekeeping on a Small Acreage,
Facilities Design and Management. 1990. Cherry Hill.
Garden Way Publishing, Storey Communication, Pownal, VT.
179 pp. www.equisearch.com/farm/special/
2001/09/07/fences This site provides some basic
information about various types of horse fencing and an
opportunity to link to material manufacturers,
contractors, and the American Fence Association:
www.americanfenceassociation.com
or 800-822-4342.
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